Some people believe that hair should be washed every other day, while others advocate washing it once a week. Some think that the frequency of washing depends directly on hair length, while others believe it’s all about the climate.
As you can see, washing your hair is a topic surrounded by myths. So, what does science say?
Healthy scalp is properly cleansed skin with a stable microbiome and an intact hydro-lipid barrier. In fact, the key factor is not how many times a week you wash your hair, but correctly selected, gentle formulas and a careful washing technique.
It’s no secret that an imbalance of bacteria and yeasts (for example, Malassezia) on the scalp is directly linked to dandruff, itching, and irritation. This imbalance, in turn, arises both from improperly chosen hair care products and from poor washing technique.
Let’s go over the most popular myths about washing hair.
Myth 1: The less you wash, the less oily your scalp becomes
Refutation: Sebum production is regulated by hormones. Washing your hair less often does not help the scalp maintain its natural balance.
Excess sebum and styling residue on the scalp provide an excellent breeding ground for pathogenic microorganisms.
The result is dysbiosis, irritation, flaking, and itching.
Myth 2: Frequent washing is harmful to the scalp microbiome
Refutation: It’s not washing itself that is harmful, but aggressive cleansing formulas and improper technique.
Clinical observations show that a correctly selected shampoo affects not only the beauty and health of the hair, but also helps maintain a healthy scalp microbiome.
So how should you wash your hair, and how often?
Frequency. Base it on scalp oiliness, hair type, climate, and lifestyle.
If you have oily scalp and/or fine straight hair:
● You often do intense workouts
● You live in a hot, humid climate — you can wash your hair every other day or even daily.
If you have normal scalp:
● Your hair has medium density
● You rarely exercise or do not exercise at all
● You live in a temperate climate — you can wash your hair every 2–3 days.
If you have dry scalp and/or thick/curly hair:
● You rarely undergo intense physical activity
● You live in a temperate, cold, or dry climate — you can wash your hair every 3–7 days.
Safe hair washing rules
1. Use warm, not hot water. Too hot water increases transepidermal water loss and provokes dryness and irritation.
2. Choose shampoos with a pH around 4.5–5.5 — the natural pH level of the scalp. Such products maintain a healthy acid-base balance of the scalp and gently affect the hair cuticle.
3. Use products containing mild surfactants: coco-/decyl glucoside, sodium cocoyl isethionate, cocamidopropyl betaine.
4. After washing, always use a mask, conditioner, or balm. Prefer products containing glycerin, betaine, panthenol, liquid keratin, nourishing oils, or ceramides.
Factors to avoid (especially for sensitive scalp)
1. Harsh anionic surfactants in high concentrations (e.g., SLS), as well as products with alkaline pH (above 7) — regular use provokes irritation, dryness, and itching.
2. Excess fragrances and essential oils.
3. Overuse of dry shampoos. Even high-quality dry shampoos only mask oiliness but do not clean the scalp.
Washing technique
● Wet roots and hair lengths.
● Apply a small amount of shampoo to the scalp, gently massage for 30–60 seconds, then distribute the foam along the hair lengths, massage, and rinse thoroughly. Repeat if necessary.
● After rinsing shampoo, apply balm or mask to the hair lengths. Leave for 3–5 minutes and rinse thoroughly with warm water. No need to repeat the procedure.
● Important: most masks, conditioners, and balms are not intended for application to the scalp.
Correctly selected formulas effectively reduce dysbiosis and improve scalp health, helping to eliminate dandruff, excessive dryness, or oiliness.
Wash your hair as often as your scalp and lifestyle require. Hair health depends on both the quality of cosmetic products and the washing technique.
Important to know: If you experience persistent dandruff, itching, or inflammation on the scalp — do not delay a visit to a dermatologist/trichologist. These common, seemingly harmless symptoms can significantly affect your quality of life if not addressed promptly.
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