Victoria Carillet on skincare fundamentals, skinimalism, and healthy skin

Not long ago, skincare routines were relatively simple: a few trusted products and a clear ritual.

Today, the beauty industry offers an overwhelming variety of products, active ingredients, and complex multi-step routines. Yet at the same time, more dermatologists and beauty experts are advocating for a different philosophy — mindful skincare and “skinimalism.”

To better understand which steps truly matter for healthy skin and long-term skin vitality, we spoke with Victoria Carillet, founder of the Austrian premium beauty brand RAVI Born To Shine.

In this interview, she shares her professional insights on the essentials of effective skincare and the most common mistakes people make today.

Q: What are the essential steps every skincare routine should include?

V.C.:
There are three fundamental steps that every skincare routine should include:

• Gentle cleansing

• Deep hydration

• Sun protection

These three steps form the foundation of healthy skin. Everything else — serums, actives, and specialized treatments — are additional tools that can be introduced depending on the results you want to achieve.

But without this foundation, even the most advanced skincare products will struggle to deliver their full potential.

Q: What exactly does “gentle cleansing” mean?

V.C.:
This is one of the most common misconceptions in skincare.

Many people believe the skin should be washed “until it squeaks.” In reality, this can damage the skin.

The surface of our skin has a thin protective layer called the hydrolipidic barrier, composed of natural oils and moisture. This barrier:

• retains hydration inside the skin

• protects deeper layers from bacteria and environmental stress

• helps maintain the skin’s natural pH

Aggressive cleansing — such as alkaline soaps, harsh surfactants, or very hot water — removes this protective layer.

When that happens, the skin often reacts by producing more sebum, which can lead to:

• oily shine

• inflammation

• tightness

• redness

• and other skin problems.

A proper gentle cleanser should therefore:

• contain mild surfactants (for example Cocamidopropyl Betaine)

• have a pH level close to that of the skin

• include soothing and hydrating ingredients such as betaine, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol.

Q: Which skin types need hydration the most?

V.C.:
The truth is that all skin types need proper hydration.

That’s because dehydration is not a skin type — it is a condition. Even oily skin can be dehydrated.

Good hydration usually involves two key products used daily.

A serum, which delivers intensive hydration, ideally containing ingredients that attract water such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, betaine, panthenol, or aloe.

And a cream, which completes the routine by nourishing the skin and sealing moisture inside, helping to maintain hydration and address specific concerns such as aging signs, redness, or excess oiliness.

Together, these two steps help the skin remain balanced, comfortable, and resilient.

Q: How important is daily SPF?

V.C.:
Remember this: SPF is not just a “beach cream.”

It is daily protection against skin aging and damage, and it should be used every day — even in winter.

Ultraviolet radiation affects our skin in many ways. It can:

• break down collagen

• increase the risk of skin cancer

• reduce the effectiveness of skincare products

• cause photoaging (wrinkles, pigmentation, loss of elasticity)

• promote the formation of free radicals

According to modern dermatological research, up to 80% of visible signs of skin aging are linked to sun exposure.

That is why daily SPF protection is one of the most powerful anti-aging strategies available.

Q: Cosmetic shelves are full of products with active ingredients — from peptides to acids. How should they be used?

V.C.:
There are several active ingredients that are beneficial for most people, including:

• Niacinamide, which supports the skin barrier, evens the skin tone, and reduces inflammation

• Hyaluronic acid, which provides deep hydration

• Ceramides, which help restore the skin’s protective barrier

• Panthenol and Allantoin, which provide soothing and healing effects

• Azelaic acid (in moderate concentrations), which works well for redness, acne, and uneven skin tone

But when it comes to stronger actives like retinol, AHA/BHA acids, or vitamin C, they should be approached carefully and thoughtfully.

These are powerful tools, but they are:

• not suitable for everyone

• not necessary at all times

• and should not always be used together

They should be introduced gradually and with a clear understanding of your skin’s condition and your skincare goals.

If the skin is already irritated, dehydrated, or its barrier is compromised, strong actives may only worsen the situation.

Q: What are the most common skincare mistakes?

V.C.:
The first major mistake is aggressive cleansing.

Scrubs with abrasive particles, cleansing brushes, and frequent peeling can damage the epidermal barrier.

The second common mistake is using too many active ingredients at once.

For example:
acids + retinol + vitamin C can easily lead to redness, irritation, sensitivity, and burning sensations.

The third mistake is trying to solve complex skin issues — such as wrinkles, pigmentation, or acne — without first establishing a strong basic routine.

Before addressing advanced concerns, it is essential to meet the skin’s fundamental needs.

Q: How can you tell if your skincare routine is overloaded?

V.C.:
Your skin usually gives clear signals.

If you notice symptoms that weren’t present before, such as:

• burning sensations

• redness

• dryness combined with oiliness

• unexpected breakouts

there is a good chance that your skincare routine has become too aggressive or too complicated.

My advice in this case is simple: return to a basic routine for at least two weeks and allow your skin to restore its natural balance.

Q: What should guide someone when choosing a skincare strategy?

V.C.:
First, don’t try to achieve results at any cost.

Second, remember that your skin is a living system. It needs to be supported and respected, not constantly experimented on in pursuit of trends.

And finally, take care not only of your skin but of your overall health.

Because in the end, true beauty always begins from within.